Sometimes
the drive to the vacation destination is full of it's own little surprises...
Last
weekend we took a long weekend and visited the small town of Karpacz, Poland.
We mostly stayed at the hotel because it had plenty to do for a family
with a small child and this trip was decided more or less off the cuff with
little planning.
The drive
there and back proved just as worthwhile as the wonderful time we experienced
at the Hotel Gołębiewski w Karpaczu. http://www.golebiewski.pl/karpacz
On the way
to the hotel our GPS was taking us all over these tiny little back roads
because it isn't updated enough to know that there are larger, newer roads that
have since been completed. As luck would have it, those back roads turned
out to have some of the most interesting views.
We came upon this relic of a church. I had to stop and photograph it even though I don’t know its origin or
name.
The reason this church fascinated
me is because the area of Poland that we were in while driving to Karpacz was once part of the Holy Roman
Empire of 1648. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7d/Holy_Roman_Empire_1648.svg
This piece of history did not hold much meaning for me until we moved to Wroclaw and as I investigate landmarks that we are seeing and photographing the Holy Roman Empire keeps coming up.
The Holy
Roman Empire as you can see from the linked map above covered most of Europe as
did the “Thirty Years of War” that was fought within the areas depicted on the
map. From what I have read the war was mainly started over disputes between the
Protestants and the Catholics, but eventually turned into a war involving politics and power that spanned over most
of the regions or “countries” (as we now know them) in Europe (Thirty years of
war, 2013). This church could very well be a remnant of this war. Can you imagine living in region that has been at war for thirty years? This was one of the longest, most destructive wars in European history. I do not claim to be a
historian of any sort, but I find history extremely fascinating. I did not have a ton of time to spend
translating the Polish history books that I would have available to me at the public library here, so I relied on Wikipedia for my information, of which I rarely
do. However, I have found the information perfect
for a quick read and understanding of what I am seeing. If you have a moment to look at the link
regarding the “Thirty Years of War” it is quite well written. (see works cited)
The first
time I came across the “Thirty Years of War” was when we were visiting Świdnica,
Poland where my husband now works. If
you are looking for this town on the map link above it was known as Schweidnitz
because it was part of Germany then. My
Aunt sent me a link of a picture of the “Largest Wooden Church” in Europe
that is over 300 years old. We found out
that this church is located in Swidnica, so we decided to hunt it down. These are some of the pictures of it. Unfortunately, it was not open while we were
there but we plan to go back to see the inside soon.
This
Church and two others were “allowed” to be built after the Thirty Years of War ended (1648) as
a peace offering from the Catholic Church. They are known as Peace Churches after the "Peace Treaty of Westphalia" that permitted them to be built. The treaty allowed the Lutherans to build three wooden churches in the Roman Catholic dominated areas of Silesia as long as
they could be constructed in a year or less and stayed within the following constraints. The churches could be built only using wood, loam and/or straw, were
built outside of the village walls, and could not have a steeple or a bell (Churches of Peace, 2013). Two of the three churches are still standing
after many wars have since followed, even after the Thirty Years of War.
This is one of the three churches built and is located in Swidnica, Poland. This Church of Peace is 361 years old! Many stone structures have not survived the wars that have occurred on European soil like the mystery church photographed above. It is a true wonder that the wooden Church of Peace is still standing and in the condition it is currently in. The other wooden church that still exists from this Peace Treaty is located in Jawor, Poland and we hope to see it soon... pics to follow. The third wooden church in Głogów burned down in 1758.
These first two pictures were taken of the exterior of the Castle walls.
"City and town founded by Boleslaw Bald, son of Prince Henry the Pious of Silesia. The first mention of the city / mayor said konrad from 1276 bulkhead-lock certified for the first time in 1277, the erection of a brick castle is assigned Bolek and Prince Swidnicko Jaworski 1297-1302. From this period a massive tower and the adjacent preserved to this day part of a residential building.
Expansion of the castle Swidnicki carry Prince Bernard and his son Bolko II Swidnicko - Jaworski from 1326 to 1368. Castle Bolkow then it was most powerful stronghold Silesian Piast. After the Piast dynasty expiration swidnicko - Jaworski in 1392r. Duchy passed into the possession of the Czech koronz.
Expansion of the castle takes place in the years 1540 to 1593. From this period and new residential building lots ramparts encircle the courtyard from the river with numerous bastions. In 1646r. At the end of the war 30 years, Swedes gain and destroy the castle. In the years 1703 - 1810 he was the owner of the Cistercian order. In the following years the castle is abandoned and transformed into disrepair.
Today the castle houses a museum. The town has 6,000 inhabitants, which made ambitious work. Bolków that is famous not only from the Piast souvenirs, but there is a thriving economic and cultural center."
High walls surround an inner courtyard with living quarters off to the left as you see in the picture. I am curious who would have lived in these rooms as their exterior walls are not protected by the high fortress walls, which you can see in the second picture posted.
In the picture below, I am surprised to see there are still a few support beams left that would have held up what I am guessing would have been the ceiling and upper floors. The picture on the lower, right show stairs leading below the main level. Possibly a cellar.
These stairs lead to the look out tower that was visible in the first picture as I was walking up to the castle. The stairs are steep and narrow obviously built during a different era and not for use of the royal family members.
This is the top of the main look out tower. Small windows for watching for on comers go all the way around. There are also various doors for placement of the canons pictured below.
It is a cloudy day and you can still see for miles in any direction. On a clear day I would guess that you would be able to see for fifteen miles or more. Very nice placement for a castle I would say.
Coming down from the tower I am much more aware of how precarious the stairs are and have to hold onto the handrail as it is not an easy decent. I am curious if this railing was put in once the castle became a museum. I can't imagine trying to run down from here using these stairs to tell the Prince, or later the Duke, that someone is approaching.
When I toured the Bolków Castle, Burger had fallen asleep in the car, so Brad let me run up to have a look around. I was the only one going through the Castle during this time and I have to say the hairs on the back of my neck were standing going through these areas. It was incredibly quiet inside the castle walls and only partially lit by a few lights added for tourists. You could smell the dirt and stone and the added chill from snow and no ceilings added to my sudden sense of how alone I was in there. 
This was my last shot as I was exiting the Bolków Castle. It is fascinating to me to think this was the view of the Prince and then his son Duke Bolko almost 700 years ago when they were leaving their home. They of course would have seen trees beyond the arch instead of roof tops but never the less it is amazing.
I suppose having inadequate GPS navigation systems in the car is not always a bad thing if occasionally it leads you passed a lucky find every now and again.
Works Cited:
Churches of peace. (n.d). In Wikipedia. Retrieved February 9, 2013, from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Churches_of_Peace
Thirty years of war. (n.d) In Wikipedia,
Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thirty_Years'_War
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